Fresh Food Revolution
Tuesday, April 21st, 2009
The Nation — When Michelle
Obama began planting an organic garden on the South
Lawn of the White House recently, there was no doubt she was sending a
message, but the message was more subversive and far-reaching than most
American media coverage recognized. On March 20, joined by a class of
local fifth graders, the first lady lifted the first shovels of dirt onto a
1,100-square-foot plot that will feature fifty-five kinds of vegetables,
including spinach, peppers, arugula, kale, collards and tomatoes (but no
beets–the president reportedly does not like beets). Various herbs and
berries will also be grown in the garden, which is fully visible to the
thousands of tourists and other pedestrians that pass by the White House
daily. (There will also be two boxes of bees for pollination.)
Michelle Obama’s stated message was simple and was clearly aimed at her fellow
Americans: fresh food tastes better and is better for you,
so kids and grown-ups alike should eat lots more of it. “A real,
delicious heirloom tomato is one of the sweetest things you’ll ever
eat,” she told the 10-year-olds, adding that freshly picked
vegetables were what prompted her daughters to try new kinds of
foods.
What made Obama’s message so subversive was something she left
unsaid: the food most Americans eat nowadays is not fresh, tasty
or healthy. The superiority of fresh ingredients may be obvious to
Italians, but it is a truth most Americans long ago forgot, if they ever
knew it in the first place. Over the past fifty years, the United
States has been transformed into a fast food nation, in author Eric
Schlosser’s phrase. What the typical American eats is not so
much food as it is highly processed food derivatives that have traveled
thousands of miles since leaving the farm, losing along the way most of
the flavor and nutritional value they once possessed. To disguise such
losses, food manufacturers overload products with fats, salts and
sweeteners, especially corn syrup–additives that, along with the
massive portions typically served in the United States, help explain why
nearly one in three Americans is obese.
Now, by publicly championing fresh local food, Michelle Obama clearly hopes
to entice Americans away from their junk food past to a healthier, more
delicious future. And that is what makes her message so far-reaching.
Change America’s eating habits and you can change the world.
Shifting to a greener diet would be good not only for the health of
America’s children and families but the health of the planet. (04/21/09)
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